At the Table of the Priors

Near our little rental house are several agriturismi--farm stays where the owners cultivate something on the property, usually grapes or olives. Many are large enough to have full-time staff, so it's not unusual to see employees' cars parked in the shade as we pass on our morning walks.

What was unusual was the cat. I don't know if he's always there, but he certainly was today, lounging in the shade without a care in the world. He barely acknowledged us. We figured the owner would probably take him home for lunch eventually. We thought he was pretty cool.

And now for the main event. 

Officially, it was called Alla Tavola dei Priori--At the Table of the Priors. The headquarters of Massa Marittima's three Terzieri--Borgo, Cittanova, and Cittavecchia--are normally closed to the public and reserved for members. For one evening, however, they opened their doors so everyone could experience their history firsthand.

Each headquarters featured a historical reenactor who shared the stories, symbols, and heraldry of the Terziere. Together, the three neighborhoods explored different aspects of medieval life in Massa Marittima--from everyday living to food during the era of the Free Commune.

Visitors sampled three dishes from each Terziere, all recreated from 13th- to 15th-century recipe books and prepared with careful historical accuracy. The menus were developed in collaboration with Dr. Fabio Cavalli and Dr. Marialuisa Cecere of the Jaufre Rudel Academy of Medieval Studies, experts in medieval gastronomy and culture.

Alongside the tastings were armed combat demonstrations, medieval dances accompanied by period music, poetry readings by local writers, flag-wavers (sbandieratori), and musicians.

We were in for a quite a night.

Cittavecchia

Elena decided to join us for the evening. She wasn't particularly interested in tasting medieval food, but she was excited for the opportunity to see inside the headquarters of all three Terzieri. 

We began in Cittavecchia. 

A gentleman dressed in full Cittavecchia costume greeted us and escorted us down a side street before handing us off to a young guide inside the headquarters. She gave us an enthusiastic tour of the rooms and explained the history of the Terziere.

Display of cornioli from past competitions

Split arrow....it doesn't only happen in the movies

We didn't spot the corniolo from the Balestro we attended in May 2025, but we did see this one--a split arrow. Apparently it doesn't only happen in the movies. Ira and I both recognized the paleo from that same event, you can read about that here.

Framed paleo from May 2025 Balestro

Winner entry in the big book

Our next stop on our evening passeggiata was Borgo. You may recall our friend Alberto competing for them, so it wasn't surprising to find both him and Sofia volunteering at the event. Alberto and Sofia were pouring wine while his mother helped serve the food. 

On the Menu in Borgo

Shwallemberg Sauce over Pecorino 

A rich, honey, white wine, and spice sauce served over pecorino cheese, creating a sweet-and-savory combination.

Saffron & Onion Tart 

Sweet onions and creamy ricotta baked into a savory tart, with saffron adding a delicate flavor and a beautiful golden color.

Chickpea & Almond Tart 

A surprisingly light dessert made with chickpea puree, almonds, raisins, pine nuts, and warm spices, finished with a hint of rose water.

We sat and ate while we watched the sbandieratori perform. The standalone building directly behind the flag-wavers is the Borgo headquarters.

Sbandieratori (flag-wavers)

After the performance, we had a look inside. They had their winning banners proudly mounted on the wall and a very nice display including their flag, balestra, corniolo and costume.

After the tour, we returned to Cittavecchia in hopes their kitchen was open and it was!

On the Menu in Cittavecchia

Schabetia (Luxury Pickled Fish)

Fish marinated in a sweet-and-sour sauce with dried fruit, saffron, cinnamon, and spices--a surprisingly delicate medieval dish.

Saffron Fennel 

Tender fennel slowly cooked with saffron, transforming a simple vegetable into an elegant, fragrant side dish.

Krapen (Honeyed Apple-Walnut Bites)

Small fried pastries filled with apples and walnuts, coated in honey and lightly spiced--comfort food, medieval style.

I was curious why two of the evening's recipes had German origins. Later I learned they were included as a nod to the German miners and skilled workers who once lived and worked alongside the people of Massa Marittima. 

Then it was up the hill to Cittanova and the third and final headquarters. On the way, we ran into the Massa musicians, which always puts a smile on my face. Who doesn't love a marching band?

Massa Musicians

On the Menu in Cittanova

Limonia (Spiced Chicken with Lemon)

Chicken simmered in a creamy sauce of almond milk, lemon, and warming spices for a rich yet bright flavor.

Spelt Tart 

A savory spelt tart with pancetta, Parmesan, ginger, and saffron, finished with a touch of brown sugar and rose water for an unexpected sweet-savory balance.

Blackberry Tart 

A light ricotta and blackberry tart with a hint of ginger and rose water--fresh, delicate, and the perfect finish to the meal.

While we ate, we were treated to demonstrations by medieval combat reenactors. The first featured soldiers armed with pikes, followed by an impressive sword duel. I don't know whether it was all choreographed or if one of them was genuinely angry, but they certainly had me fooled. The dramatic toss of the helmet was a nice touch. 

Fighting with Pikes

Vengeance by Sword

After the performance we made our way into the headquarters itself. We'd briefly stepped inside during last year's Balestro, but this time we were able to take a proper look around. Along with displays of armor, we found a beautifully preserved fresco on one wall. Since the headquarters occupies part of the same former church that houses the organ museum where I practice, it made perfect sense. 

Armor display

Sienese school, early 1300s

Attributed to the circle of Ambrogio Lorenzetti

The large figure on the right is a Franciscan saint, while the two panels on the left are his miracles

• the saint freeing prisoners from jail
• the miracle of the hanged man saved

By the end of the evening our bellies--and our minds--were full. We wandered back toward  Piazza Garibaldi, where the festivities were still going strong.

Piazza Garibaldi in full swing

It was one of those evenings that reminded us how much history is woven into everyday life here. We only understood part of the Italian, but we understood far more than we would have a year ago. Progress.

That's all for now.

Ciao, ciao.