Balestro

A Medieval Showdown in Massa Marittima

The Balestro del Girifalco: Crossbows, Costumes, and Community Pride

Twice a year, the quiet Tuscan hill town of Massa Marittima transforms into the stage for one of the region's most dramatic and deeply rooted traditions: the Balestro del Girifalco. If you’ve never heard of it, picture a medieval-style showdown—complete with crossbows, squires and dames.

Held on the fourth Sunday of May and again on August 14, the event is a spirited competition that pits 24 crossbowmen—eight from each of the city’s three historic districts (Terzieri: Cittavecchia, Borgo, and Cittanova)—against one another in a high-stakes challenge. The setting? The Piazza del Duomo, one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Tuscany (in our opinion).

Before the battle: The Road to Qualification.

Only eight shooters from each terzieri make it to the final competition, so the weeks before the Balestro are filled with qualifying rounds. Our Italian teacher Sofia was especially anxious this year--her fiancé Alberto, a former champion, was trying to qualify again. 

Good news: he made it! To celebrate, Sofia invited us to watch him practice.  

Near side

Far side

Nice shot!

the ballestra (crossbow)

frecce (arrows)

The Ritual Begins

The day before the event, we joined Elena in the square to witness the official drawing of the shooting order. Naturally there was a procession, followed by the captains entering the Palazzo Comunale. Everyone waited in anticipation as the flags were revealed from the windows:

• Cittavecchia would shoot first
• Borgo second
• Cittanova third

Pageantry in Full Color

On the day of the Balestro, Massa Marittima explodes with life. A grand parade winds through the streets featuring more than 150 locals in elaborate period costumes--drummers, captains, flag-wavers, a noble lady and her page, a groom, standard bearers and of course the crossbowmen. 

Sofia met us outside her family's apartment in Cittanova, and gave us a crash course in the costume symbolism before the procession began at Piazza XXIV Maggio. Mingling through the crowd Sofia introduced us to her friend, one of the dames, and we almost didn't recognize our geometra, Giacomo who was dressed for Borgo. 

Each terziere performs their own choreographed procession for bragging rights--and so before the start we headed to the Torre del Candeliere for prime viewing with Sofia's friend Pamela. Afterward, we hustled down to the arena and joined Sofia's family near the crossbowmen's seats for a perfect view. 

Ready, Aim Fire

Using handmade replicas of 15th-century Italian crossbows, each competitor takes aim at a small wooden target called the corniolo, set 36 meters away. Hitting the corniolo earns the right for the shooter's squire to place their flag beneath the target. But if the arrow misses? The squire is left standing, holding the flag--a visible and emotional moment.

Sofia confessed she never wanted to be a squire remembering a young boy clutching his flag in tears when his father missed the mark. Hardcore.

This year, that very same boy--now grownup--was back, not as a squire, but as a shooter. And (small world), he's now dating Sofia's friend Pamela. 

The competitor whose arrow lands closest to the center wins the symbolic golden arrow. But the bigger prize is the drappellone: a hand-painted silk banner awarded to the winning terziere, and a serious point of pride for the neighborhood. This year's banner featured San Bernardino, proudly displayed in the square days before the event.

2025 drappellone of San Bernardino

The Passion of the Crowd

The atmosphere in Piazza del Duomo is electric. The crowd on the cathedral steps is divided by terzieri, and everyone is deeply invested.

Cittanova correografia

One banner read: 'Riprendiamoci tutto quello che é nostro'-- a quote from the TV series Gomorra, meaning 'Let's take back everything that is ours.' According to Sofia, these dramatic banners are part of each terziere's correografia--a kind of coordinated visual and sonic display meant to district rival shooters. Whistles, rattles, drums, horns and chants--everything noisy is fair game. 

Alberto shooting amidst the cacophony

And the Winner Is.....

After all 24 crossbowmen had taken their shot, the corniolo was paraded through the square, then taken inside to determine the results.

Corniolo paraded through the square

As the crowd waited, barriers were removed and a flag waving performance began. Sofia told us that this particular flag-waver was the national champion who returned to perform for his hometown. 

National champion

At last, the results were announced--third, second and finally....

Cittavecchia was called the winner!

Cittavecchians celebrate!

They claimed the pellone of San Bernardino and earned the right to hang it in their terziere house--a significant point of local pride. 

Earlier in the week we had a rare chance to step inside the Cittanova terziere house, where past pelloni  are proudly displayed.

Inside the Cittanova terziere house

A Living Link to the Past

More than just a contest, the Balestro is a living connection to Massa Marittima’s rich past—when crossbows weren’t symbolic but essential to civic defense. Historic documents from the 14th century mention positions like the “Master of the Crossbows” and describe regular public shooting exercises to hone young men's skills.

Today, the Balestro is a joyful mix of history, tradition, and a little friendly rivalry—plus a perfect excuse to eat well, cheer loudly, and feel part of something.

A dopo!