Le Marche by Car

This trip came with a small but important upgrade--four wheels. With a car finally sorted, we set off on our first Italian road trip, heading east toward Le Marche for a visit that turned out to be equal parts adventure and hospitality.

Did I mention that we managed to get a car finally? It was high on our priority list since we're living out in the countryside. Ira found a company called Drivalia that offers a monthly subscription for a car--insurance included--for up to a year, with the flexibility to cancel or renew as needed. It turned out to be far more economical than renting or leasing, and much simpler than buying. 

There was just one catch: they required a European credit card for autopay. Easier said than done. We tried leveraging Ira's long history with American Express to get a European card, but after many many weeks, we're still trying. In the end, Drivalia made an exception and allowed us to use an American card. 

So.....we have a car. Finally!

With that, we embarked on our first Italian road trip--and along the way, we were introduced to the world of GPL (liquefied petroleum gas). It's a common alternative fuel in Europe, and at around Є0.80 per liter compared to gasoline at Є1.78, it's a significant savings.  Not every station offers it, and when they do, an attendant fills the tank for you using a special adapter. The system is carefully controlled, with tanks filled only to 80% to allow for expansion.

Let's just say--we're big fans already.

Our destination was Le Marche, just east of Tuscany along the Adriatic coast. More specifically, we were headed to Sassoferrato, where my Italian practice partner Bianca Maria and her husband Luciano have their summer home. We had visited them near Milan last December, and this time we were staying at their home. 

We never did get their exact address--despite asking. Instead, they told us to text when we were close and they'd wave from the balcony. It sounded optimistic...but somehow, it worked perfectly. We drove into town, looked up and there they were. 

Lunch was nearly ready, of course. 

After a relaxed meal and some catching up, they suggested we head out to see a few nearby towns before sunset. 

Our first stop was Arcevia, where we visited the Chiesa di San Francesco, originally built around the 13th century. Inside, the organ and the quiet atmosphere made it feel like stepping back in time. 

Chiesa San Francesco

Organ in Church of Saint Francis

From there we explored the former Franciscan convent, now home to the town's archives, library, and a contemporary art collection. It's an unusual and wonderful combination--books and modern art side by side. I was especially drawn to the kinetic sculptures of Edgardo Mannucci, which immediately reminded me of an exhibition we saw at The Art Gallery of Alberta. I've always loved art that moves and invites interaction.

Mannucci kinetic sculptures

Next, we visited the Collegiata di San Medardo, where we saw the beautifully detailed Paliotto (altar frontal) by Mattia della Robbia. Made of glazed terracotta, it features cherubs, garlands, and intricate decorative elements.

The Paliotto

by Mattia della Robbia

Directly opposite it hangs a striking painting of the Baptism of Jesus by Luca Signorelli. Known for his mastery of anatomy and perspective, his work here is said to have influenced artists like Michelangelo--a connection that's easy to appreciate when you see it in person.

Baptism of Jesus (1508)

by Luca Signorelli

Our final stop of the day was Piticchio, widely considered the most beautiful and best-preserved of the nine castles of Arcevia. Perched high on a hill, this fortified medieval village dates back to at least 1223. Though it was destroyed and rebuilt several times, much of what stands today reflects its 15th century layout.

We walked the full length of the ancient patrol walkway, taking in sweeping 360-degree views of the rolling Marche countryside. The narrow streets, stone walls, and quiet atmosphere made it feel almost untouched by time.

Gate and clock tower

Patrol Walkway

Pretty narrow street

Le Marche countryside

By then, it was time to head back. Luciano had a pot of minestrone soup waiting for us, and after a full day of exploring, it was exactly what we needed. The weather had turned gray and slightly rainy--perfect for a cozy evening and a good night's sleep. 

A new car, new roads, and the kind of welcome that makes you feel instantly at home--this was the perfect start to our Marche adventure. Sometimes the best travel moments aren't planned at all...they're waiting on a balcony, waving you in.

Ciao ciao for now.