Sofas, Saffron, and a Very Full Day

We didn't know exactly what to expect from our first full day in Milan, but it ended up being one of those wonderfully full days--equal parts practical, cultural, and delicious, with a few surprises woven in along the way.

Due to our train delay, it was quite late by the time we arrived at our hotel in Milan. Thankfully, we had chosen a hotel just a short walk from the station--an excellent decision after such a long day. Our room at Hotel Berna was perfectly serviceable, with a small but efficient bathroom. The only real issue was the temperature: it was so hot. Fortunately, the windows opened, and northern Italy was properly cold outside. The heat went off and the window stayed opened all night.

Room at Hotel Berna

Small but efficient bathroom

We had a 10:00 a.m. appointment at the furniture store the next morning, so we opted for the hotel's breakfast buffet to avoid arriving ravenous (plus it was included). It turned out to be quite good. Since we weren't sure when our next meal would be, we decided to skip the usual sweet Italian breakfast and go full American. Sometimes you just have to, even when in Italy. I even managed to sneak in some vegetables--a spinach quiche and an eggplant parmigiana-style dish--so I'd call that a win.

Buffet at Hotel Berna

American-style Breakfast

Rather than taking transit, we decided to walk to our appointment. It was about 25 minutes, but the day was beautiful, and walking is one of the best ways to experience a city. We arrived just as the store opened, explained why we were there, and were encouraged to wander freely and call for help if needed. Below are a few of the pieces that caught our eye.

Sofa Runner-Up

Ombré rug and comfy chair

Sturdy coffee tables and another rug option

Originally, we planned on a three-seater sofa with an armchair and a large ottoman. Since it's usually just the two of us on the sofa--and we like to put our feet up--it made sense. But after seeing how massive the ottomans felt, we pivoted. Now we are looking at coffee tables, which allowed us to select a more visually substantial armchair. In the end we found the sofa and chair--both incredibly comfortable and exactly what we wanted. Ours won't be white (we're not that brave), we've already chosen a darker fabric.

Winner Winner

We finished earlier than expected, so with time to spare before meeting Luciano, we wandered the neighborhood, ducked into a few other furniture shops just for fun, and somehow ended up in the Brera district. We didn't have time for the museum, but we did sit in the courtyard and people-watch for a bit, surrounded by beautiful architecture and the library. Eventually, it was time to head back and meet Luciano. 

Luciano is the husband of Bianca Maria, my online Italian practice partner. He generously offered to meet us, show us around Milan a bit, and then take us back to Vittuone, where Bianca Maria had prepared lunch. 

One of our first notable stops was the Ponte delle Gabelle, located at the beginning of the Martesana Canal. This area once used the "Vincian Gates," a water-control system designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Boats entering the canal paid tolls--or gabelle. Today, it's a scenic spot for walkers and cyclists.

Ponte delle Gabelle

From there, we walked to Porta Garibaldi, a neoclassical city gate built in the 1820s as part of Milan's old wall system and renamed in 1860 for Giuseppe Garibaldi. Once the northern entrance to the city on the road to Como, it now stands in a lively district blending historic landmarks with modern shops, restaurants, and the busy Garibaldi railway station.

Porta Garibaldi

Nearby, we passed through a sleek, modern shopping mall--shiny, contemporary, and a striking contrast to the historic gate we'd just seen.

Modern Mall in the Garibaldi neighbourhood

Before heading into the station, Luciano pointed out the famous Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest). These iconic residential towers are covered in trees and shrubs, creating a living urban ecosystem. Designed by Stephano Boeri, the buildings help filter dust, reduce noise, regulate temperature, and bring nature into the city. Even in winter they're impressive; I can only imagine how stunning they are in summer.

Bosco Verticale

Luciano had already purchased our train tickets, so we headed straight to the platform. The ride to Vittuone took about 35 minutes. When we arrived, Luciano had his car waiting at the station, and after a short drive we reached their apartment, where Bianca Maria was ready with lunch--risotto ala Milanese.

This classic Milanese dish is known for its creamy texture and distinctive golden color from saffron. Legend traces its origins back to 1574 during the construction of the Duomo di Milano, when an apprentice glassmaker--nicknamed "Zavverano" (Saffron)--added the spice to a wedding banquet's rice. Whether joke or inspiration, the result was a culinary triumph. It was delicious, and we both had an extra helping--a rookie mistake, as it turns out.

Because of course, there was more.

Risotto alla Milanese

Next came salad, salumi, cheese, fruit salad for dessert. They served it with a white wine from La Marche, the region where Luciano is from, and ended with a small glass of Mirto as a digestif. This past summer our host at the wine tasting mentioned the local liqueur and pointed out the native fruit on our tour in Sardegna; it's made from berries and herbs and served icy cold.

Digestif - Mirto

After lunch, we chatted until it was time for Bianca Maria's dentist appointment. She hoped we could stay--and of course we did. Since neither Bianca nor Luciano speaks English, it was a fantastic (and slightly intimidating) opportunity to practice our Italian. Ira did great--communicating easily and even managing a few jokes. I was very proud of him.

After the appointment, we drove to the nearby town of Magenta to visit the Chiesa di San Biagio. I had mentioned what I'd learned about San Biagio and panettone, and she thought we might enjoy seeing the church. Now part of a Canossian monastery, it serves the nuns. We weren't sure we'd be allowed in, but Bianca Maria asked--and they kindly said yes. We kept our visit brief, as it was in use.

Chiesa di San Biagio

Back at their home, it was time to eat again--this time something light. Bianca Maria made minestrina, a simple soup with tiny pasta cooked in the leftover broth from the risotto, topped with cheese before serving.

Minestrina

That was followed by bollito--the beef used to make the broth--tender and full of flavor. To finish, Bianca opened the panforte di Siena we had brought as a gift. This traditional Tuscan Christmas sweet is dense, chewy, and packed with nuts, candied fruit, honey and spices. 

Unlike American fruitcake, it's rich without being cakey. There are two main versions: nero (dark and spice-forward) and Margherita (white, dusted with powdered sugar), named for Queen Margherita. I'll take panforte over fruitcake any day.

Panforte di Siena

After dessert, it was time to head back to Milan. Luciano drove us to the station and gave us very clear instructions for the return trip. Thankfully, our hotel was conveniently located, and we were back in no time. 

And that was the end of our first full day in Milan. 

One down, one to go.