Buongiorno, signore!

Some trips are built around sightseeing. This was not one of those trips. This trip revolved around paperwork, patience and a lot of crossing fingers. We did, however, manage to include good food with good friends and plenty of small moments that made the waiting easier.

Before heading to Los Angeles, we made a couple pit stops in La Jolla Village to pick up passport photos and a money order for the Consulate. Thankfully, we left early enough to miss the infamous L.A. traffic and we were checked into our hotel with daylight to spare. 

Having gone through my own visa process last April, we had a basic idea of what to expect. This time, I was determined to charm the security reception officer with my much-improved Italian. But first, it was time for a good dinner and a good night's sleep.

On our walk to dinner, we spotted The Hammer Museum and made a little mental note for later.

Buggy Bear Crashes

by Alake Shilling

Dinner was at Fresh Corn Grill, where we both ordered veggie bowls--mine topped with grilled salmon and Ira's with shrimp.

Veggie Bowls

grilled corn, zucchini, asparagus over wild rice

The next morning we arrived at the Consulate early and were first in line. It was the same security guard from last year. I explained our reason for being there in Italian. He understood--then switched to English. Still, I'm convinced he was marginally nicer to us this time, in fact, we were the only ones in line he didn't yell at, which felt like a win. 

I left Ira for his appointment and waited downstairs, offering quiet encouragement to those behind us. From my seat in the lobby, I watched a few people leave almost immediately--never a good sign. One gentleman sat beside me, worried he was too early. I encouraged him to go back upstairs and explained how the process worked. Look at me: unofficial Consulate guide and counselor. 

About an hour and a half later, Ira came down with another woman who was crying--happily. After ten years of trying, she finally had her passport. 

Ira had his own story. He'd won over the agent with his Coop and Conad cards (those loyalty cards are paying dividends). But then came the request for return flight information, which we didn't yet have. The agent sent him outside to buy a ticket, email it, and come back in. Thankfully, Ira handled it calmly and got right through security again. 

Paperwork accepted. Now we just needed his passport back in time. 

Woohoo!

We celebrated by heading to a pastry cafe nearby and settled in for breakfast and a few hours of waiting. Conveniently, there was a music store in the Consulate building, and I found exactly what I'd hoped for--anthology books at my current level and a few for future goals. 

Music books

Since Steve and Izzy were working, we had time to fill--so it was off to the Hammer Museum.

Hammer Museum

California does indoor-outdoor spaces so well, and the Hammer is no exception. Here are a few pieces that stood out. 

The Hour Wherein

by Greg Breda

British Columbia Sweep, 1970

by Pat O'Neill

Close Up

Rochefort's ceramic sculptures were especially interesting, perhaps because of our connection to bonsai ceramics. The layered glazes that crack and ooze felt alive. 

Liana Pulse

Scald Rain

Sporelight

We were also delighted to see more work by Alake Shilling. 

 

C'est la vie, mon ami, 2025

by Alake Shilling

The Artist Reimagined as a Turtle Bug, 2025

by Alake Shilling

Then we moved on to The Armand Hammer Collection, with highlights from Rembrandt, Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh. 

Juno, ca. 1662-65

Rembrandt Harmensz. van Rijn

View of Bordighera, 1884

Claude Monet

Touc, Seated on a Table, ca. 1879-81

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

The Sower, ca. 1888

Vincent van Gogh

Close up

We finished with John Knight's minimalist installation. Neither of us quite "got it," but maybe that was the point. 

Electric blanket (plugged in)

Ad accompanying John Knight's blanket

Lunch in the courtyard followed--good food, indifferent service, excellent sourdough. 

Butternut squash soup and local sourdough bread

Chicken Milanese

Before rush hour hit, we drove to Sierra Madre and settled into Steve and Izzy's "party house"--the back house, complete with bonsai. Perfect.

We filled our free time with little free libraries, trading books and logging visits on the app (yes, I'm that person).

Dinner was sushi at their favorite spot. 

Yellowtail and Dragon Rolls

The next morning, Steve took the day off and took us to Yahaira's Cafe for breakfast.

I ordered pancakes. Ira ordered Huevos Yucatan. I chose...poorly. Next time. I know better.  

Huevos Yucatan

After breakfast it was time for a good long walk with Georgie, the Rhodesian Ridgeback, Along the way, I couldn't help but snap some photos of the beautiful homes. Sierra Madre really is a cute neighbourhood. 

Are we the only people who take pictures of mushrooms?

After 10,000 steps, I collapsed for downtime while Ira and Steve worked in his parents' garage-turned-bonsai-workshop.

Steve's bonsai workshop

Pine Project

Still no word from the Consulate. Ira emailed, hoping for clarity. Email or not, we planned on camping out at the Consulate doorstep the next morning.

That evening, we returned to an old favorite--Amigo's in Pasadena--full of nostalgia from our Huntington Library volunteer days. Click here for the post about the last time we volunteered there and here for the post from the last time we visited.

The next morning, we were back at the Consulate early. And what should arrive?...the email...passport ready.

Victory!

Ira came down quickly, passport and visa in hand--though all our original documents were kept. Not ideal. Back to the pastry shop for strategizing. We now had a plan involving Carson City, Las Vegas, and apostilles. Not simple--but manageable.

And so, "Hirem" and I began the drive back to San Diego. 

Ira's cortado

A quick stop at Roadrunner for second pairs of walking shoes and insoles turned into lunch plans with Dawn, followed by fish burritos at El Pescador and coffee at Il Giardino di Lilli. 

Macchiato, Latte, Cortado and an Almond Tart

We squeezed in one last antique shop visit.....

Copper Tree sculpture on Obsidian

....picked up Mochi, grabbed groceries, repacked bags, and rested briefly before heading to the airport for our flight to Edmonton. 

Exhausted. Grateful. Relieved.

This stretch reminded us that travel isn't always about landmarks and postcards. Sometimes it's about patience, paperwork, and trusting that things will work out--especially when you're surrounded by good friends, good food, and a sense of humor.

Moving on! (as our friend Deborah would say)

Ciao ciao!