Panettone Blessings and Winter Days in Massa

Let me start by saying how relieved I am that my panettone will wait for me. If you're curious why (see the comment here). Andrea's story about keeping a slice for San Biagio's Day turns out to be a pretty interesting story. 

San Biagio is known as the Patron Saint of Throats. Of the many miracles attributed to him, the most famous is saving a child who was choking on a fishbone.  He's also considered the Protector of the sweet tooth, which already makes him pretty likable in my book. But why do we eat blessed Panettone? 

The tradition traces back to a popular tale: A peasant woman brought her parish priest a panettone to bless before Christmas, then accidentally forgot it in the rectory. Days passed, and the priest--overcome with temptation--began eating it piece by piece. Naturally, that was the exact moment the woman returned to collect it...on February 3rd, the feast of San Biagio. The priest, preparing to apologize, picked up what was left--and miraculously found the panettone whole again, even larger than before.

Since then, in Lombardy it's customary to set aside a piece of panettone during the Christmas season and keep it until San Biagio's Day. On February 3rd, the faithful bring the cake to the church, the priest blesses it during the early Mass, and afterward families eat it together to bless the throat and nose for the year ahead.

Pretty great, right? 

A Few Days Later.....

While waiting for the tree in the piazza to be decorated, I stood on the Duomo steps and thought it still looked majestic enough to deserve a photo.

The tree in all its splendor

And yes, at the risk of making it seem like our life is all sunsets and food....here comes another sunset. We had missed one recently, so this time we made sure to arrive at our viewpoint in time--and it did not disappoint.

Fiery Sunset

The next morning, the crane arrived as expected, and we walked over to watch the "crane decorators" in action. 

Crane Decorator

Later, we headed to Conad, and at the top of Parco di Poggio we finally stumbled upon the weekly market Sofia had told us about. We never managed to catch it before, so this felt like a small victory. We weren't shopping for anything in particular, but it was such a beautiful morning that wandering through the stalls felt perfect.

The Weekly Open Market

On our way back down from the park, we noticed we had a pretty good view of our roof. Re-doing it wasn't in the original plans, but now that it's happening, both of us are glad. 

Roof work

The next day, after Italian class in Follonica, we met Niccolò for lunch. He chose a spot in Ghirlanda--a tiny hamlet at the base of Massa Marittima. Back in the day, a train passed through there. Honestly, we're both happy it doesn't anymore; the current station is close enough at 15 minutes, but not so close that we hear it.

For lunch, we were headed not to the Michelin-starred Bracali, but to Bar Trattoria da Sbrana--a "just like going to your grandmother's house" kind of place, according to Niccolò. He ordered the late mushroom pasta, so I did too. Ira went for the ragu.

Late Mushroom pasta

We were happily finishing our plates when the proprietor brought over an extra dish--stinco di maile. They had just made it fresh that morning and were clearly excited for Niccolò and guests to try it. The meat fell right off the bone. I later learned it's a classic Northern Italian pork shank dish, slow-cooked with wine, herbs, and garlic. It made me wonder if the owners might originally be from the north.

Stinco di Maile

The boys had coffee, so naturally I ordered dessert. The owner insisted on the panna cotta. Since I've overcome my panna cotta phobia, I went for it. This one was much thicker than the panna cotta at Marrini (click here to compare), and instead of fruit---Nutella! Rustic, a little unexpected, but delicious.

Nutella Panna Cotta

Later that afternoon, on our way to the Organ Museum, we checked on the gingko tree again. This time I followed Ira up the Duomo steps to view it from behind. It's lovely from this side as well.

Gingko from up top

At practice, I must have been all thumbs (I blame the cold), because Dr. Ronzoni handed Ira a new book--to lend to me, I was to play Tchaikovsky instead of Bach. Lots of "Dances" and "Reveries." Honestly, right up my alley. No offense taken, LOL.

A Little Tile Shopping...and a Little Surprise

The next morning we drove to Follonica to visit a shop that sells cementine tiles. They carry a huge variety and can custom-make pretty much any pattern. We left with plenty to think about on our beach walk. 

Our original idea was to create a medallion or a faux "rug" in the entryway. But because of the L-shape and the diagonal wall for the bathroom, the design just wasn't coming together. Eventually I started picturing all the hard surfaces and thought--maybe actual rugs would soften the space nicely.

When we returned home, we were greeted by a pleasant surprise: daylight shining through our previously bricked-up window. Time to go have a look when the workers are gone.

Daylight through our new old window

As for the gingko update--it has officially gone gold. Thank you to Andrea for the gorgeous  "artist shot".

Gingko Gold

The Gospel Surprise

After piano practice the next day, we attended a concert Elena had organized. I hadn't read the flyer carefully (we tend to go to anything Elena puts on), so I was expecting a traditional choral program. 

Elena said the choir agreed to sing for the Mass before the concert. We arrived in time for what I thought might be a preview of the concert material. They were wonderful.

Then the concert began...and they turned out to be a gospel choir from Prato! Also, the birthplace of cantucci (I was told, by Giulia, Gus and Marie's friend, who is also from Prato) I promise to investigate further. You know I adore Sister Act, so this was a treat. And when they broke into "Oh Happy Day," I was on my feet with Elena clapping along. It also had the added bonus of keeping me warm.

Gospel Choir from Prato

And yes, here is the clip from Sister Act II--which I have shamelessly watched many times. Also: am I the only one who forgot that Professor McGonnagall was in that movie?

Oh Happy Day - Sister Act II

Dinner at Pianizzoli

After the concert, Elena had hoped we could get a reservation at Le Fate (since we "know her now"), but she was booked for a private party. So Robby suggested a nearby agriturismo with great reviews: Agriturismo Pianizzoli.

It was already dark, but the Stone Pine-lined drive hinted at a beautiful property. Inside, it was cozy and rustic. And the food....

Antipasti:

• Tagliere with Tuscan salami, house-made cured meats and cheese with homemade jam
• Crostini misti (liver, stracchino cheese and sausage, mushrooms)
• House-made pickled vegetables

Primi:

• Handmade Maremmani tortelli stuffed with ricotta and wild herbs (your choice of ragu or butter & sage) 

The whole wheat pasta was light and delicious and the stuffing was creamy. I would go back just for the stuffed pasta.

Secondo:

• Mixed roast: chicken and rostinciana served with roasted potatoes

Dolcini 

• Tiramisu
• Pesca
• Ricotta and Nutella (this was the stand-out)
• Crostata di marmellata

Water, house wine and coffee included with this prix fixe menu all for €30 each. It was so much food that we brought home three vaschette (Italian "doggy bags").

Fun fact: vaschetta is the diminutive form of vaso (container) and is commonly used to refer to tubs of gelato, deli items or take away items. Taking home leftovers isn't very common in Italy, so there's no perfect translation of "doggy bag."

When we finally got home, the Duomo had received its Christmas gift. 

The tree was lit!

Ci vediamo tra una manciata di giorni.