A Tuscan Detour to Cortona
Needless to say, we've been busy, so my Cortona posts are running a little behind--seems to be a recurring theme these days. But now it's time to catch up. When we left Modena, we weren't heading home just yet. Instead we were off to Cortona for an unexpected adventure.
If you recall, we had just finished a delicious lunch in Modena and were back in the car driving towards Cortona. Why Cortona, you ask? Well, let me explain.
Our friends Gus and Marie invited us to join them on a trip they had acquired in a rather unusual way. An acquaintance had purchased a package at a charity auction that included a five-night stay in a two-bedroom apartment, a cooking class, and a winery visit complete with lunch and wine tasting. After postponing it as long as possible, they realized they wouldn't be able to use it, it was a classic "use it or lose it" situation. Since we were already in Tuscany, Gus and Marie took over the package and generously invited us along.
So here we were in Cortona.
After managing to find parking, we began the trek up to our Airbnb. And when I say up, I mean up. Unlike Massa Marittima, where the climb eventually levels off, Cortona seemed determined to continue straight uphill forever. By the time we arrived, we were more than ready for a break.
Thankfully, we were rewarded with this incredible view from our apartment. The valley stretched endlessly before us--vast and open, without the rolling hills we've grown accustomed to around Massa.
View from our Airbnb
Gus and Marie took the bedroom on the main floor while we settled into the upstairs suite. It was comfortable and private, with plenty of room to spread out.
After unpacking and rehydrating from the climb, we headed back into town for a stroll. The piazzas were bustling with visitors, and nearly every conversation we overheard was in English. There were tourists everywhere. We wandered through the streets until it was time for our dinner reservation and then made our way back up the hill for an early night. I had a feeling my legs would be reminding me about that climb the next morning.
Thankfully, we got plenty of rest because our next day began with a cooking class at Ambrosia, led by Chef Matteo.
When we arrived, the table was set for six aspiring chefs: the four of us plus another couple. They introduced themselves as Raymond and Tina from Philadelphia.
Table set for six would-be chefs
The morning focused on two doughs: pate brisée and fresh pasta dough.
Next came the pasta dough. We were making pici, a traditional Tuscan pasta that Ira orders frequently at Caterina's restaurant. In fact, the last time we visited, Caterina even offered to substitute pici for another pasta.
For the pate brisée, Chef Matteo explained the differences between various flours and why different ratios are used depending on the final product. After mixing, kneading, resting and chilling the dough, we pressed it into tart tins by hand. The leftover dough was rolled out and transformed into decorative toppers.
Once the shells were prebaked, we filled them with a creamy vegetable mixture for the savory tart and marmalade fillings for the dessert version.
Tart shells
Tart toppers
Tart fillings
Despite trying it elsewhere, Ira maintains that he only truly likes Caterina's version. Still, making it ourselves was surprisingly fun. Rolling pici reminded me a bit of working with Play-Doh.
After cleaning up, we sat down with a glass of wine and waited to enjoy the results of our efforts.
If I'm being completely honest, I think I may have overworked my tart pastry a bit. The pici however, turned out wonderfully. It's definitely something I'd like to try making again at home.
Our pici pasta
Creamy vegetable tart
Pici with Green Tomato Sauce
Apricot tart
As it turned out, Raymond and Tina had recently purchased a home in Cortona and were in town overseeing renovations. They were great company and offered several museum recommendations, including advice on which attractions were worth the time and which could safely be skipped.
We enjoyed their company so much that I suggested we all have dinner together another evening back at Ambrosia. After all, I was curious to see what Chef Matteo could do when he wasn't teaching.
A dinner date was set.
After saying goodbye, we followed one of Raymond's recommendations and headed to the Diocesan Museum.
Outside stood a beautifully displayed sculpture.
Ulivo di Pace = "Olive Tree of Peace"
by Gualtiero Busato
The first thing that caught our attention was the extraordinary ceiling. The museum is housed in the former Chiesa del Gesu, built by the Confraternita di Gesu. Its coffered wooden ceiling is composed of deep octagonal panels decorated with the IHS monogram--Iesus Hominum Salvator("Jesus, Savior of Men"). Every panel contributes to a visual narrative designed to immerse visitors in the story of salvation.
Below that ceiling hangs the museum's most famous masterpiece: The Annunciation by Fra Angelico.
Downstairs, in the lower oratory onced used by members of the confraternity for private gatherings, the atmosphere changes completely. The ceiling becomes a fully frescoed vault depicting scenes from both the Old and New Testaments.
While Marie searched the gift shop for a silk scarf to bring back for her mother-in-law, we found the boys waiting across the square in the Duomo di Cortona, officially the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.
On our walk back, we stumbled upon a small art exhibition. The artist was actually there, carefully working on a new piece. Watching her add each tiny pen stroke was fascinating.
Coffered Ceiling
Painted around 1433, it is considered one of the great treasures of the Early Italian Renaissance. The gold leaf detailing remains remarkably vibrant, and the work retains its original predella, featuring exquisitely detailed scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.
The Annunciation
by Fra Angelico
Ceiling of the lower oratory
Duomo di Cortona
Naturally, one piece immediately caught our attention.
One memorable moment came at dessert.
Viaggio in Italia
by Kate and Luigi Agnelli
The artist explained that she was originally from New Zealand but had moved to Italy with her Italian husband. They had worked side by side every day until his passing two years earlier. She told us that when she creates art, she still feels him working beside her.
It was a touching conversation.
Afterward, we returned to the apartment for a short rest before dinner.
That evening we dined at the sister restaurant of the place we'd visited the night before. At the end of our previous meal, we had met the owner. When we ordered amaro, he became excited and insisted we try the amaro he makes himself. Before we left, he invited us to visit his other restaurant.
So here we were.
Unfortunately, I neglected to write down exactly what we ordered, but the photos should give you an idea.
Somewhere along the line I became convinced that the menu offered cheese-flavored gelato. Whether it was a translation issue, my misunderstanding, or simple wishful thinking, I'm not entirely sure.
Ira knew exactly what was happening but wisely chose not to intervene.
What arrived was not cheese-flavored gelato.
It was cheese.
Good cheese, but just cheese.
I learned something important about myself that evening: I enjoy cheese immensely as an appetizer, but cheese is not dessert. At least not for me.
The boys, however, were perfectly happy to help finish it.
On our walk back uphill, we passed a tiny restaurant that was closing up for the evening. I though it might be the hole-in-the-wall spot Raymond and Tina had recommended.
We love hole-in-the-wall restaurants.
After confirming with Gus and Marie that I had remembered correctly, I walked inside and made us a reservation for lunch two days later.
Just like that, another Cortona experience was added to the list.
Cortona was already proving to be much more than a beautiful hill town. Between rolling pasta dough, admiring Renaissance masterpieces, meeting people, and accidentally ordering cheese for dessert, we were quickly filling our days with memorable experiences.
And we were only just getting started.
Stay tuned--there's still a winery to visit, more food to eat, and plenty more of Cortona to explore.
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