The Province of Modena

We picked up Elena in the morning and headed north to Modena, an elegant and affluent city in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region. Modena is famously home to automotive giants, traditional balsamic vinegar, and legendary opera tenor Luciano Pavarotti. Elena and Robby had invited us to stay with them to explore Modena and the surrounding area. 

We arrived in the early afternoon and, after a quick tour of their beautiful home, sat down to a lovely lunch that Robby had prepared.

We started with homemade bread and salumi, followed by homemade tortellini stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Afterwards, we enjoyed cherries grown just down the street.

After a little rest, we jumped back in the car and headed to Maranello. Although Modena is the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, the official factory and secondary Ferrari Museum are located in Maranello.

We decided not to visit the museum itself. Instead, Elena and Robby took us to a local viewing spot on a bridge where we could watch Ferraris testing on their private track. That was pretty cool--and free. The track even had its own gas station, which we all found oddly fascinating. Though I suppose, it would be weird to have to pull up to a local station to fill up.

Ferrari Track

Private Gas Station

We also drove past the original Ferrari factory building in town. Apparently, whenever a nearby property goes up for sale, Ferrari often buys it, tears it down, and expands. The company has a reputation for taking care of both its employees and the town itself. Maranello has embraced that connection so fully that the Ferrari logo even appears at the town welcome sign.

First Ferrari Factory

Welcome to Maranello, home of Ferrari

And yes, seeing Ferraris casually driving around town is completely normal here. Many belong to clients taking test drives or tourists renting them for short spins around town.

Red Ferrari

From there, we drove to Levizzano Rangone to see its striking medieval fortress, surrounded by rolling vineyards of Lambrusco Grasparossa grapevines. The fortress area also houses a museum dedicated to Rosso Grasparossa wine. We had tasted some earlier at lunch and found it surprisingly different--lightly sparkling, fruity and perfect for a summer afternoon.  Apparently, wine made from these grapes naturally develops a bubbly character.

Cypress lined park in Levizzano Rangone

The fortress itself was originally built between the 9th and 10th centuries as protection against Hungarian invasions. It includes the Bishops' Rooms, the feudal palace, and the 32-meter-tall Matildic stone tower that once served as both lookout point and commander's residence. Unfortunately, the castle was closed during our visit, but wandering around the grounds was still worthwhile. Even the door handles were works of art.

Castello di Levizzano Rangone

Serpent Handles

Next stop: Castelvetro di Modena, a stunning medieval hill town about 18 kilometers south of Modena. 

At the heart of the village is Piazza Roma, famous for its giant checkerboard. Every two years in September, the town hosts the Dama Vivente festival, where human actors dressed in Renaissance clothing become living pieces in a giant checkers match. Behind the checkerboard sits Palazzo Rangoni, while nearby stands the Torre dell'Orologio, the town's clock tower.

Palazzo Rangoni behind the checkerboard

Clock Tower

One local told us that the square had recently been beautifully restored thanks in part to Ferrari heir Piero Ferrari and some of his wealthy friends. Apparently, Piero Ferrari owns a home within walking distance and enjoys dining at the restaurant overlooking the square. If you have the means, why not improve your view?

From there, Elena and Robby took us to Formigine, Elena's dream town should she ever decide to buy a house. We parked near Villa Gandini, located within Parco della Resistenza. This historic villa now serves as the town's public library and is famous for its majestic ancient Ginkgo Biloba trees.

Gingko Tree

Robby later showed us a photo of the same tree in autumn, its leaves glowing bright gold. The trunk was enormous--much larger than our gingko tree back in Massa.

Same Gingko last fall

Villa Gandini Biblioteca

Ceiling of the public library entrance

Inside the library, even the entrance ceiling was beautiful.

For whatever reason, I decided to check the Little Free Library app to see if there was one nearby. There was! In my very slow and careful Italian, I asked the librarian if they knew where to find it. Sadly, they explained that the woman who managed it had experienced a family tragedy and had closed the library. Such a shame. 

We then made our way to the Castello di Formigine, a 13th-century fortress once surrounded entirely by a deep moat supplied by diverted canal water. The drawbridges were once the only way into the stronghold.

One especially interesting detail was the double-bridge configuration: one bridge for carriages and another separate entrance for pedestrians.

Castello di Formigine

Double-Bridge Configuration

Carriages on the left / pedestrians on the right

The museum inside the castle was already closed, so naturally we decided it was time for an aperitivo instead. We settled in with drinks and snacks just as dark clouds began gathering overhead. Soon we heard thunder, spotted lightning, and quickly paid the bill before racing back toward the car. We made it inside just as the rain started pouring down.

By the time we arrived back at the house, the storm had become torrential. Safe indoors, we counted ourselves lucky after such a full and fascinating day.

Tomorrow: the historic center of Modena itself.

Ciao ciao!