Some destinations live up to the hype--and then there's Taormina. Perched high above the sea with Mount Etna looming in the distance, it's the kind of place that feels both grand and intimate all at once.
After breakfast at the Airbnb in Aci Castello, we set off on a 45-minute drive to Taormina--often called the "Pearl of the Ionian Sea." Sitting about 200 meters above sea level on Mount Tauro, it offers sweeping views of the coastline...and of course, Mount Etna, which seems to dominate nearly every angle.
Mount Etna
We entered through Porta Catania and soon found ourselves in Piazza Duomo. At the center stands the 17th-century fountain, topped by Taormina's symbol--a crowned centauress. Behind it rises the Duomo of Taormina, built around 1400. With its massive stone blocks and battlement-like roofline, it feels more like a fortress than a cathedral.
Piazza Duomo
A short walk along Corso Umberto brought us to the stunning Piazza IX Aprile--Taormina's "living room." With its black-and-white checkered pavement and panoramic views stretching across the Ionian Sea to Mount Etna, it's easy to see why people linger here.
Overlooking the square is the former Church of Sant'Agostino, now a library, while nearby stands the elegant Chiesa di San Giuseppe, built by the same confraternity we encountered earlier in Caccamo.
Piazza IX Aprile
Church of San Giuseppe
We continued strolling along Corso Umberto, admiring the shop windows and occasionally wandering down the charming, stepped side streets that branch off in every direction--great for views, not so great for your calves.
Side street
Tucked away down one of those streets, we discovered the Odeon of Taormina, a small Roman theater built around 21 BC during the reign of Emperor Augustus--constructed directly atop an older Greek temple. Sicily in a nutshell: layers upon layers of history.
The Odeon
Not far away stands the iconic Ancient Theatre of Taormina, originally built by the Greeks in the 3rd-century BC and later adapted by the Romans. With its incredible acoustics and breathtaking backdrop, it still hosts concerts and festivals today. We briefly considered going in, but decided it might be even more memorable to come back and attend a performance--perhaps Bryan Adams later in the summer... or maybe an opera.
Ancient Theatre of Taormina
Before leaving Taormina, I had one mission: try a cannolo. I'd made a promise to myself--no more claiming I didn't like them without trying one in Sicily.
We stopped at Laboratorio Pasticceria Roberto, where they kindly showed us how they're made. The ricotta is put into the shell fresh from both ends, then finished with nuts or chocolate.
Step 1: Fill one side
Step 2: Adding the toppings
Step 3: Finished Cannolo
The verdict? Never eat cannoli outside of Sicily.
The shell was perfectly crisp (thanks to being filled to order), and the ricotta was lighter, fresher, and far less sweet than what I'd had before. I officially stand corrected.
With no fixed plan for the rest of the day, we decided to drive down to Giardini Naxos to see the coast up close and maybe grab a drink.
We arrived just as the sun dipped behind the mountains. You don't get a classic sunset on the east coast--something Ira (our resident West Coast expert) was quick to point out--but the sound and smell of the water more than made up for it.
View of the water from Giardini Naxos
We wandered into a lively seaside bistro, where they teased us slightly for choosing to sit inside--but it was breezy and a bit cool, so we stood our ground.
Apericena turned out to be a fantastic surprise:
Tris Kamurria: caponata, burrata with pistachio crumble, and parmigiana
Pasta alla Norma: fresh pasta with fried eggplant and ricotta salata
Insalata di Baccalà: a cold cod salad with celery, tomatoes and olives
Pasta alla Norma
Insalata di Baccala
The cod salad was a last-minute addition--and absolutely the right call. Light, fresh, and full of flavor.
The meal, the atmosphere, the friendly staff (and even a quick chat with the chef about local gin)--it all came together to make for a perfect, unplanned evening.
From mountaintop views to seaside dinners, today had a little bit of everything. If Taormina is the jewel of the coast, then Giardini Naxos might just be its laid-back, equally charming neighbor.
And as for cannoli? Lesson learned.
Ciao ciao!
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