This day started over breakfast and turned into one of those rare, memorable days filled with shared discoveries, good food, and a new friend.
The next morning, we headed up to the rooftop breakfast terrace and found our friendly guest from the day before deep in conversation with Antonella and a few others. We settled in, ordered eggs with tomatoes, ham, and cheese, and helped ourselves to the spread of breads and cakes.
After the others drifted off, she came over to chat. Her name was Jaqueline (and yes, she was delighted when I pronounced it the French way). She explained that her mother had named her after Jacqueline Kennedy. This didn't make sense until she reminded us that she was born Jacqueline Bouvier.
She was in a bit of a bind. She needed to get to the airport the next morning, but transportation wasn't working out as promised. She might have a ride to the train station but given Sicily's somewhat unpredictable train schedules, she was understandably stressed. On top of that, she had already walked around town twice and wasn't eager to do it again.
So, without overthinking it, I suggested she join us for the day.
We didn't have firm plans and had already decided to stay an extra night--so why not? Ira and Jaqueline were both a little surprised by the spontaneity, but I had a good feeling. We agreed to meet in 20 minutes, exchanged numbers, and quickly sketched out a plan: Segesta and then Zingaro Nature Reserve.
First stop, ruins.
Segesta was just a 20-minute drive away--perfect for Ira, who loves a good ruin. We parked, grabbed tickets, and walked up the hill to the striking Temple of Segesta.
The temple is remarkably well preserved, especially considering it was never actually completed. Built in the 5th century BCE by the Elymians (likely with a Greek architect), it's missing its inner chamber and a roof, which makes it even more fascinating--as you can see details that would normally be hidden.
Temple of Segesta
As we circled the temple, we stumbled upon something completely unexpected: large, colorful lobster sculptures. Slightly surreal, to say the least. We later learned they're part of an installation by Philip Colbert, designed to contrast ancient history with bold, modern imagery.
One piece in particular stood out--a white sculpture resembling Perseus holding Medusa's head. It made us wonder what stories the other lobsters might have been telling.
Column close up, fig tree up top
Instead of taking the shuttle, we decided to hike up to the Teatro di Segesta. It was a beautiful day, and we weren't in a rush. Along the way, the hills were covered in wildflowers, and the views kept getting better.
Wildflowers
More Wildflowers
More lobster art
Lobster Perseus with Medusa's head
That said...the "10-minute walk" turned out to be a generous underestimate. Closer to 20 (or more), and definitely uphill. But eventually, we made it.
Perched high on Monte Barbaro, the theater dates back to the 3rd century BC and once held around 4,000 spectators. Today, it still hosts performances--imagine watching a play here at sunset.
Il Teatro
Stadium Seating
Close-up of the theater steps
After taking it all in, we made our way back down and headed off in search of lunch.
Wildflower-ed Countryside
Jaqueline had heard that Scopello was worth a visit, so we gave it a try. After wandering past the main street, we found a tucked-away spot--La Terrazza--with exactly what we were hoping for: a quiet table and a beautiful view of the sea.
The view from our lunch spot
We shared everything (the best way to eat, in my opinion):- Mixed grilled vegetables
- A Sicilian antipasti platter
- Fish couscous, served with broth to pour at the table
I confidently added all the broth at once--assuming the couscous would absorb it--and thankfully, it worked out perfectly. Everything was fresh, flavorful, and exactly what we needed.
Mixed Veggies
Misto siciliano
caponata, panelle, pomodoro secco, formaggio grigli, olive, bruschette, arancinette, funghi
Cous-cous di pesce - Prima Parte
Brodo di Pesce
Cous cous di Pesce (con brodo)
Inside a local family was celebrating something--maybe a birthday party or a christening--which gave the whole place a warm, lived-in feel. We felt like we had stumbled onto a local favorite.
After lunch, we wandered through the village before driving a few minutes to the south entrance of Zingaro Nature Reserve.
We decided to walk toward one of the small museums and then continue down to the nearest beach, Cala della Capreria. The views along the path were stunning--rugged coastline, clear blue water, and the occasional abandoned stone house that Ira found especially charming.
Abandoned stone house in the park
Sicily coastline
From above, the beach looked incredible--but I was feeling tired and a bit dehydrated, and briefly considered staying behind. Jaqueline, in flip-flops no less, wasn't having it.
"You've come this far--you're going in the water."
Fair point.
So down we went. Slowly but surely.
The beach was rocky but beautiful, tucked into a sheltered cove with crystal-clear water. By the time we arrived, the sun was starting to lower, and most people were relaxing or packing up. A father and his young child were still in the water, enjoying, the last of the day.
Rocky beach
We stayed for a while--sitting, wandering, soaking it all in--until the sun dipped behind the mountains. Then we made our way back up, rewarded with even more incredible colors across the sea.
Return views
By the time we reached the car, we were tired in the best possible way.
A short drive brought us back to our Airbnb, and we said goodnight to Jaqueline, making plans to drive her to the airport in the morning. We were heading out anyway--we just hadn't quite figured out where yet.
What started as a simple breakfast turned into a full day of shared experiences--ancient ruins, coastal views, and plenty of laughter along the way. It's moments like these that make travel so special: a little spontaneity, a lot of curiosity, and sometimes, a new friend when you least expect it.
I had a feeling I'd sleep very well that night.
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