A Little Bit of Everything Sicilian
Over the next couple of days, Sicily revealed itself in layers--from medieval fortresses and hidden catacombs to Greek myths and coastal towns.
The next morning, we enjoyed our final breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace, said goodbye to Antonella and Daniela, and confirmed our timing with Jaqueline, whom we were dropping off at the airport.
From there, we set out for what's often called "the most beautiful medieval town in Sicily": Caccamo. And yes--after our airport stop, we somehow ended up singing along to Kokomo the entire drive (Bonus points if you can name the actor in the pink tank top, playing the steel drums.)
Kokomo - The Beach Boys
After exiting the highway, we navigated about 20 minutes of narrow, winding roads before catching our first glimpse of the castle--and what a sight it was.
The Castello di Caccamo is one of the largest and best-preserved Norman castles in Sicily, perched dramatically on a limestone cliff over 500 meters above sea level. Originally an Arab stronghold, it was expanded in the 12th century by Matteo Bonello and later fortified by noble families such as the Chiaramonte.
On our way up, we passed the Monumento ai Caduti, honoring those lost in World Wars I and II. I couldn't help but notice--at least from a distance--it had a bit of a Silver Surfer vibe.
One of the most fascinating rooms is the Sala della Congiura (Conspiracy Hall) named after the failed "Revolt of the Barons" in 1160. Here conspirators plotted against William I of Sicily, even managing to assassinate his minister. But the rebellion ultimately failed, and Bonello himself was later captured and executed after being lured out under false promises of pardon.
We thanked our guides--who kindly let us stay past closing--and stepped back out into the bright Sicilian sun.
Impressive Caccamo Castle
Monumento ai Caduti di Caccamo
Inside the castle walls, we explored everything from the courtyards to the prison chambers, all while taking in sweeping views over the San Leonardo River Valley and Rosamarina Lake.
Gate through the walls of surrounding the castle
San Leonardo River Valley and Rosamarina Lake
Down in the prison, looking towards the way out
The Front Door
Sala della Congiura
On the belvedere terrace, we came across the so-called "Hanging Arches," once used for public executions--a stark reminder of the power once wielded here. A local legend tells of two condemned prisoners who requested sheets before their execution, using them as primitive parachutes to attempt an escape by jumping. One died, but the other survived. Taking this as a sign of divine intervention, the lord of the castle granted the survivor a full pardon.
View from the Belvedere Terrace
The Hanging Arches
After exploring every corner of the castle, we wandered into town and found ourselves in the Piazza Duomo. The main cathedral was closed, but a nearby church--Chiesa delle Anime Sante del Purgatorio--had its doors wide open.
Inside a young volunteer gave us an enthusiastic tour in English. Above the entrance, five carved skulls served as a memento mori, a reminder of mortality and the importance of prayer for souls in purgatory.
The main entrance
Inside the altar is representative of typical 18th-century Sicilian marble work. The painting depicts a classic Purgatory scene which was central to the confraternity's mission--praying for souls awaiting Heaven.
The altar
The ceiling above the altar
The most interesting thing, however, was down below.
Beneath the church lies a crypt established in the late 16th century by a confraternity devoted to praying for the dead. Inside remarkably preserved human remains and mummies from the 18th and 19th centuries are still visible. The preservation is due to both careful preparation and a unique microclimate that slows decay.
For wealthier members, being preserved in full attire was a sign of status, and families would even visit to maintain and change the clothing. It was fascinating, slightly eerie, and completely unforgettable.
From there, we attempted to meander back to the car...and promptly got lost. Eventually, we retraced our steps and found our way back to the main road. Along the way, we stopped at a small takeaway spot where a large outdoor table caught our eye.
Snack time.
We ordered a couple of arancini, and while the wait was long, we quickly understood why. They were made fresh to order--piping hot, generously sized, and absolutely delicious.
Back on the road, we headed toward our next stop: Aci Castello. The drive itself was interesting--unlike the tunnels we'd seen in Calabria, these highways were elevated on towering concrete pylons stretching across the valleys.
Made to order arranciono
Once we exited the highway and entered the towns of the "Aci" region--Aci Trezza, Acireale, and Aci Castello--the driving became... intense. Narrow roads, tight turns, heavy traffic, and very confident drivers.
Finding our Airbnb was an adventure in itself. The final turn was barely visible--a narrow path more suited to a cart than a car. We missed it. Twice. Eventually, thanks to a reroute and some persistence, we made it.
Antonio's mother greeted us warmly and showed us around, including the lovely breakfast terrace and her nearby apartment--just a knock away if we needed anything.
We had just missed the last tour of the castle, but we arrived in perfect time for dinner. Trusting the lively crowd of Italian vacationers, we chose a seaside restaurant and leaned fully into seafood--fresh fish and shrimp pasta. This time, excellent choices.
Back at the apartment, we relaxed with a bit of Italian TV. I was pleasantly surprised--I could follow along and actually enjoy it. A small win.
We stopped for a coffee and tried a local ricotta-filled pastry--simple, fresh, and absolutely delicious.
On our way back, we paused to watch a group of kids climbing and jumping along the rocks. One brave jump was captured mid-air; another boy wisely reconsidered. From up there, it looked a lot higher than it probably felt at ground level.
Breakfast terrace
That evening, we walked toward the town square near the Castello Normanno, an 11th-century fortress perched on a dramatic black basalt cliff.
The Castle Square
Fresh fish of the day
Shrimp Pasta
After dinner, we walked back along the water. The castle, lit up at night, was stunning, and we even spotted a fisherman casting his line under the glow of lights.
Night fishing
The next morning, we headed in the opposite direction towards Aci Trezza. The sky was clear, the sea shimmering in shades of blue, and locals were already out for their morning walks.
Off the coast rise the Faraglioni dei Ciclopi, dramatic basalt formations tied to the legend from Odyssey, where the Cyclops Polyphemus hurled rocks at Odysseus. In reality, these formations are hundreds of thousands of years old, created by underwater volcanic activity long before Mount Etna emerged.
Aci Trezza
Ricotta filled pastry
Ocean jump
And just like that, our time in the Aci towns came to an end.
From castles steeped in history to seaside villages full of life, this stretch of Sicily gave us a little bit of everything--beauty, history, humor, and just enough chaos to keep things interesting.
Next stop: Taormina.
Ciao ciao!
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