FAI Day Adventures
Some of the best days are the unplanned ones. Today started on a whim and turned into a deep dive into Tuscany's coastal history--thanks to FAI Day.
Today was FAI day--organized by Fondo per L'Ambiente Italiano--which opens historic sites across Italy, including many that are usually closed to the public. The closest event to us was in Castiglione della Pescaia, so at the last minute we decided to go for it.
After parking, we followed the signs up to the castle, where friendly volunteers welcomed us. One of them, Rosie--originally from Romania--was eager to practice her English. She spoke four languages and even invited us to a baseball game in Grosseto! Instead of just donating, we signed up for an annual FAI membership--figuring it would be a great excuse to explore more hidden gems around Italy.
Our visit began at Porta San Giovanni and wound through the historic upper village, including a rare look at the Rocca Pisana gardens--normally closed to the public. The area, once a medieval fortress, was later reinforced by the Medici to oversee the marshlands of Lago Prile and the coastline. Inside the walls, noble residences like Palazzo Camaiori and Palazzo Centurioni once housed the officials responsible for coastal defense.
The theme of the day focused on the Medici-era defence system along the Maremma coast, particularly under Cosimo I de' Medici. In the 16th century, he established a network of watchtowers and patrol routes to guard against pirates, smuggling, and even disease.
After the tour, we decided to continue on to Punta Ala to visit another FAI site: the Forte di Troia Nuova. A quick snack stop at Coop, and we were back on the road.
At Punta Ala, we joined a group tour (in Italian!) exploring the fortress grounds. Built in 1562-63 by order of Cosimo I, the fort replaced an older more vulnerable tower on a nearby island. It was designed as a self-sufficient stronghold, complete with a chapel, cistern, and bakery--everything needed to withstand a siege.
Later, the site became known as Castello di Balbo, after Italo Balbo, who restored it in the 1930s.
What really brought it all together was learning about the cavalleggeri (light cavalry)--young men, often from noble families, who patrolled the coastline on horseback. Their role combined three key functions:
- Military: defending against pirate attacks
- Economic: preventing smuggling (especially salt)
- Sanitary: controlling the spread of disease
The towers themselves formed a remarkably advanced communication system. Positioned within sight of each other--no more than 5 km apart--they relayed signals using smoke by day and fire by night. From Punta Ala, towers like Torre Hidalgo, Torre delle Rocchette, and Torre degli Appiani completed the chain along the coast.
Standing there, looking out across the landscape, it was easy to imagine those signals lighting up one by one...honestly, it gave me serious Lord of the Rings vibes--like the beacons being lit. You half expect the soundtrack to kick in and rally the troops.
Not bad for a last-minute plan. A little history, a little adventure, and a reminder that sometimes the best way to experience Italy is just to say "let's go" and see where the day takes you.
Update:
We haven't seen the cat for several days now. Ira took this shot of her staring disdainfully at him. I think she knows he's the reason, she's not getting any food.
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