Crossing to Sicily

There's something about crossing to Sicily that makes it feel like a true arrival--even if the ferry ride is only twenty minutes. Between the mainland and the island, traditions begin, appetites awaken, and the adventure shifts into something distinctly Sicilian.

We had a few hours' drive from Lagonegro down to the ferry crossing between Villa San Giovanni and Messina. Before heading to the port, we made a quick (okay, 20-minute) detour to top up on GPL--better safe than sorry.

Once we arrived, we instinctively joined the ticket line...only to realize it wasn't necessary. Ira had already purchased our ticket online, so we could have driven straight through. Lesson learned for next time. Still, our timing worked out perfectly--they closed the ferry doors just after we parked.

Our little blue car made it on board, and before we knew it, we were off. The crossing is only about 20 minutes, with ferries running every 20 minutes, but it still felt like an occasion.

Of course, there's a tradition to uphold: your first arancino of the trip should be eaten on the ferry. With only minutes to spare, we hurried upstairs and got in line. 

Delicious.

Arancini

Arancini Bianco e Rosso

Before this trip, I had only vaguely heard of these fried rice balls, but I quickly learned there's a surprisingly passionate debate about what to call them:

Arancina

• Found in western Sicily, especially around Palermo
• Perfectly round, like an orange (arancia, feminine in Italian)

Arancino

• Found in eastern Sicily, including Messina and Catania
• Often conical, said to resemble Mount Etna
• Derived from the Sicilian word aranciu (masculine)

We were firmly in arancino territory--and happily so.

Sicily itself didn't stay distant for so long. You can see the coastline as you leave the mainland, and before we'd even finished eating, we were arriving.

Sicily Coast

Back in the car, we set off on a little over three-hour drive to Castellammare del Golfo, where we had booked a room for a couple nights. Our Airbnb host met us outside, showed us around, and left us to settle into our bright, cheerful Sicilian space.

Bright Sicilian room

Pretty shower

We were tired, but not too tired to eat.

Following our host's recommendation, we headed out to dinner, parking along the main street and walking to the restaurant. Most people were sitting outside, but it felt a bit chilly to us, so we opted for a cozy indoor table--just the two of us.....literally, there was no one else sitting inside.

We ordered:

• Eggplant Parmigiana
• Busiate alla Norma (with tomato, eggplant, basil, and salted ricotta)
• Busiate with prawns and pistachio 

Parmigiana di melanzane

Busiate alla Norma

Busiata Gambero e Pistacchio

Everything was delicious--simple, flavorful, and unmistakably Sicilian.

When we stepped outside to pay, the owner asked if we wanted dessert. We declined, but he quickly countered with an offer of limoncello. That, we couldn't refuse. So we sat outside after all, sipping our digestif under the heaters, feeling very well taken care of. It was a small gesture, but one that made us feel especially welcome--no doubt thanks to our host's introduction.

After dinner, we took a stroll through town. The harbor in Castellammare del Golfo was beautiful at night, with reflections dancing on the water and the Castello Arabo-Normanno quietly watching over it all.

Castellammare by night

Norman Castle

Despite the late hour, the town was lively--locals out for dinner, celebrations underway, a warm and easy energy in the air. We liked it immediately. 

But eventually, the travel caught up with us--along with the full meal--and we were ready to call it a night.

From a quick ferry crossing to a late-night walk along the harbor, Sicily made a strong first impression. Good food, kind welcomes, and just the right amount of spontaneity--already, it felt like we were exactly where we were meant to be.

Ciao ciao!