Milan After Dark

After a little downtime in our hotel room, we headed down to the lobby bar for a drink while waiting for Fabrizia and Massimo to arrive. Once they did, we spent some time catching up--and then, inspired by what we'd already seen that day, they planned a little nighttime walking tour for us. 

They had taken the metro into the city and explained that driving in downtown Milan is more trouble than it's worth. What impressed us most was how easy public transportation was: you simply tap on and tap off with a debit or credit card or mobile device--no metro card needed. Fantastic!

Castello Sforzesco

Our first stop was Castello Sforzesco, a 15th-century medieval castle that once served as a ducal residence and military barracks and now houses several of Milan's museums and art collections. Directly in front is the Fontana di Piazza Castello, affectionately nicknamed the "birthday cake" fountain.

Fontana di Piazza Castello in front of Castello Sforzesco

Christmas Lights & Palazzo Cordusio

From there we walked on and paused to admire the Salmoiraghi & Vigano Christmas tree in Piazza Cordusio. The beautifully illuminated building behind it is the Palazzo Cordusio, formerly an office building and now a five-star hotel--the Palazzo Cordusio Gran Meliá. Staying there must be quite an experience.

Salmoiraghi & Vigano Tree in front of Palazzo Cordusio

The Duomo at Night

Soon enough, we found ourselves back at the Duomo di Milano, this time fully lit and absolutely spectacular! The Christmas tree was glowing, the cathedral illuminated, and the entire square felt magical. Fabrizia mentioned that on the night of the tree lighting, the streets were closed because the piazza was packed wall to wall with people.

Duomo Christmas Tree

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

From there we turned into the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. We'd visited earlier in the day--even popping into the bookstore--but at night it transformed into a sparkling jewel box of light.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The Center of the Galleria

It's hard to capture in photos, but stepping into the center reminded me instantly of Wonka--specifically the scene where he first tries to sell his chocolates. Later I learned that while Wonka wasn't filmed here, the Galleria served as the primary inspiration for the movie's "Gallery Gourmet," which was built as a set in the U.K.

Wonka stepping into the Gallery Gourmet

The Bull Mosaic

I mentioned to Fabrizia that we'd forgotten to look for the famous bull earlier in the day, and she happily guided us to the spot. Beneath the central dome are four floor mosaics representing former capitals of the Kingdom of Italy:

• Rome: the Capitoline Wolf
• Florence: a lily
• Milan: a red cross on white
• Turin: a dancing bull

According to tradition, placing your heel on the bull's testicles then spinning three times around, brings good luck--a practice that has literally worn a hole in the floor over the years. I did my part.

Turin's Dancing Bull

Lights, Olympics & Panettone Plans

We continued our walk, mentioning that we hoped to find a panetteria to buy panettone. Since we were leaving early the next morning, tonight was our only chance. Fabrizia and Massimo happily adjusted the route, letting us meander through beautifully decorated streets along the way. Milan truly does a lovely job with its holiday lights--and there were plenty of reminders that the 2026 Winter Olympics are coming.

They mentioned they were hoping to get tickets for figure skating, though the process sounds a bit complicated. Still, they seem determined to try.

Christmas lights

2026 Winter Olympics

Monte Napoleone & Pasticceria Cova

We soon entered a very swanky district. Fabrizia explained that the apartments here are enormous and priced in the multi-millions--but wandering is free, and well worth it. In the luxury fashion district of Monte Napoleone, they took us to Pasticceria Cova, one of Milan's oldest and most prestigious cafes.

Founded in 1817 by Antonio Cova, a Napoleonic soldier, it has served for over two centuries as a literary cafe frequented by Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, and even Ernest Hemingway. Cova is especially renowned for its traditional Milanese panettone, made from a recipe jealously guarded since the 19th century--and that was exactly why we were there.

The place was packed, but we emerged victorious with two panettoni: one for us, and one for Dr. Ronzoni as a thank-you for letting me practice on his pianoforte. We gave him one last year that he enjoyed, so we were happy to continue the tradition. We chose the traditional version, though we couldn't resist snapping a photo of the elaborately decorated panettoni in the window--beautiful to look at, but who would want to eat it?

Pasticceria Cova

Decorated Panettoni

Hidden Courtyards & Quiet Beauty

Panettone in hand, we continued on toward dinner. Along the way, Fabrizia shared something lovely: "Milan is a city of closed doors and secret courtyards." Unlike other Italian cities where beauty is displayed openly, Milanese elegance is famously discreet--hidden behind heavy wooden doors. Lush gardens, Renaissance porticoes, and remarkable artworks often remain invisible unless you step inside. 

This courtyard was a perfect example. We never would have seen it if we hadn't wandered in. 

Milano Courtyard

We also passed through Via della Spiga, one of Milan's most prestigious streets. Its name means "Street of the Wheat Ear," a reminder that in the Middle Ages this was once a simple path through fields outside the city walls. By the 19th century it had become an artisan hub, and by the 1950s and '60s, it evolved into a fashion landmark--home to the first Versace boutique in 1978.

Via della Spiga

Dinner at LuBar, Villa Reale

Eventually, we arrived at dinner: LuBar, located at the Villa Reale, where Fabrizia and Massimo were married. Built between 1790 and 1796 as the residence for Count Ludovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso, the villa later became Napoleon's Milanese home--earning the name Villa Bonaparte. Today it houses the Gallery of Modern Art.

We chose a table on the patio. Though it was cold, heaters made it comfortable--and it was much quieter, perfect for conversation.

Villa Reale

LuBar

LuBar Patio

What We Ate

For antipasti we shared:

• Arancini alla Norma (aubergine, tomato sauce and ricotta)
• Polpette di Melanzane (eggplant, mint, almonds and pecorino)
• Panelle e Avocado (fried chickpea bread with avocado cream)

Arancini e Polpette

Panelle

For primi:

• Ira chose calamarata pasta with white fish ragout
• I had whole-grain busiata pasta with almond pesto and confit tomatoes

Calamarata con Ragu di Pesce Bianco

Busiata con Pesto alla Trapanese

Cannoli (or Not)

For dessert: cannoli--after all, LuBar is Sicilian, and Sicily is home to the cannolo. Traditionally a crisp, fried pastry shell filled with sweet ricotta (often with chocolate or pistachio), cannoli date back to Arab influence during Sicily's medieval period and symbolize fertility and abundance.

That said...sorry, Sicily, I still don't like cannoli. 

I do find the origins of words interesting though. The word cannolo comes from the Latin canna (reed), referring to the river reeds once used to shape the dough before frying. It's believed to have originated in Catanissetta, possibly created by cloistered nuns during Arab rule. 

Cannoli

Heading Home

And then it was time to head back. We walked to the metro station, received very clear instructions on where to get off, tapped on and tapped off with ease, and surfaced practically in front of our hotel. 

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy--as my Guatemalan friend Iris loves to say.

As we made our way back to the hotel, panettone safely in hand and our feet pleasantly tired, I couldn't help but feel grateful--for friends who know the city so well, and for Milan's quiet beauty. A perfect ending to a full Milan day, and a reminder that there is still so much more to discover.

Ciao Ciao!