Festive Massa

The transition from city sparkle back to everyday life was smooth and familiar--exactly the kind of landing we've come to appreciate.

The train ride back from Milan was uneventful, we arrived in Follonica right on time. Niccolò was there to pick us up, and from there we headed straight to Grosseto for a final meeting at the tile store. We reviewed what had already been ordered and confirmed what would need to wait until we're closer to the finish line. For now, that felt good enough.

Back at our rental, we settled into Massa life again--which lately means dinner at Caterina's (Le Fate Briache). This time we had a reservation for five, joined by Andrea, Melissa and V.S., and it was such a treat to finally have time to sit, eat, and really catch up.

Dinner at Le Fate Briache

Antipasti

  • Crostini con cime di rapa
  • Leek tarts
  • Cocole fritte with house-made mortadella
  • Crema di cannellini with house-made salamino and crescia (layered foccacia)

Crostini con cime di rapa
Tortino di Porri

Cocole fritto con mortadella fatta in casa

Crema di cannellini con salamino fatto in casa e crescia

Primi

  • Tortelli con ragu
  • Maccheroncini with provolone cream
Tortelli con ragu

Maccheroncini crema di provolone

Dolci

  • Apple Strudel
  • Torta di semolino with grapes, pine nuts and almonds
  • Zuppamisu (a hybrid of tiramisu and zuppa inglese)

Apple Strudel

Torta di semolino con uve, pignoli e mandorle

It was a relaxed, laughter-filled evening--exactly what we all needed.

Later that week, I made an executive decision: it was finally time to open the precious panettone. This was going to be an event.

Even inside the bag it looked beautiful--and came with instructions. Apparently we've been eating panettone incorrectly for years! According to Cova, it should be stored at room temperature in a dry place, then gently warmed near a heat source for about 30 minutes before slicing to "awaken its natural ingredients." You're even supposed to warm the serving plates.

Cova Panettone in the bag

Cova Panettone Instructions

Did all that prep make a difference? Hard to say. But since we paid an arm and a leg for it, I'm happy to report it was probably the best panettone I've ever eaten--soft, moist, delicately flavored, with candied fruit that was juicy but not cloyingly sweet.

Slice of Cova Panettone

Not overly sweet, however, does not describe the suggestions our new friend Giulia, who we met at Le Fate a few weeks ago, has been sharing with me. Giulia is actually not Gus and Marie's cousin, but a friend. She is from Prato (birthplace of the cantucci, Giulia informed me) and we have been running into her and her husband David (from Utah) all over town. 

Once we caught them sitting with Anthony "Nacho Man" at Il Gotto. Giulia insisted on introducing us to the owners (Matteo and Gaia) as well as her aperitivo of choice, the Spritz Bianco. Basically a regular spritz with Prosecco instead of Aperol, which makes it white versus orange-y. It was good. 

Anyways, earlier this week she insisted that I try panettone with mascarpone cream--and immediately sent me a video to make sure I knew how to make it. Later she couldn't help but show me a video of gelato stuffed mini panettoni, now a popular street food in Milan??

Oh mio dio. 

Crema di mascarpone

Around Town

Here's another of Ira's artist shots of the ginkgo tree--still full of leaves on this day, though probably not for long. The square, meanwhile is in a bit of chaos. The comune is repairing pavement in front of the Duomo, so between that and our building renovation, things feel especially....festive.

Gingko Update

Piazza Chaos

Pouring concrete

Still, Massa knows how to celebrate. From Moto-Babbo Natale to live music in Piazza Cavour and a Christmas concert in the Duomo, the spirit is very much alive.

Moto-Babbo Natale

Music in Piazza Cavour

The concert in the Duomo was surprisingly wonderful--free, donation-based, with excellent acoustics and a truly impressive soprano. Bonus: I actually understood what the host said this time. Progress!

Carol of the Bells

Soprano

Christmas Concert in the Duomo

The Duomo made a beautiful setting for the evening, and it reminded me once again how lucky we are to experience moments like these in a small town that still shows up for its traditions.

That's it for now. Our Italian classes in Follonica have wrapped up, so we're soaking up as much everyday Italian life as we can before we leave. More soon--ci vediamo tra una manciata di giorni. 



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