After exploring so much of California this past year, it felt good to be heading "home" again--to our little place in Massa. As we packed up for the trip, it struck me how different travel feels now that Italy is part of our rhythm rather than just a destination. This time around we were flying from San Diego with a three-hour layover in Detroit before heading straight to Rome.
I have to say, Detroit Airport is impressive. The tram runs right above the walkway. and since Delta has the whole terminal, there were four lounges to choose from--no waiting, no crowds, just space to relax. With a longish wait ahead, it was nice to settle in and start switching to Italy time (translation: stay awake until we boarded the next flight).
Detroit Airport
Unfortunately, I didn't sleep much on the nine-hour flight to Rome--unlike Ira, who slept like a champ after dinner was served. I read my book, watched a few movies, and reminded myself that I had to stay awake until at least 8 p.m. once we landed.
Fiumicino Airport is starting to feel familiar now, which is oddly comforting. We're learning where everything is and how to navigate without that frantic "where do we go?" feeling. One big change, though, was the passport check. Last time, we breezed through after a quick photo--no stamp, no agent. This time, new prototype kiosks were in place. Ira's passport scan was approved, but his photo failed; mine didn't even get that far. We were redirected to a line for people whose kiosks "didn't work." Not sure what line everyone else was in, but ours was the jackpot--no waiting. Boomshakalaka. I almost felt guilty walking past the huge crowd of travelers. Almost.
Our AirTags confirmed that our luggage had arrived in Rome, which is always a relief. Honestly, I don't think we'll ever travel with checked bags again without them. After years of travelling with carry-on only, it's oddly freeing to stroll to the gate with just a personal item.
We reached Massa shortly before lunch, opened the shutters, checked the apartment, and then headed out for a few groceries. On the way, we stopped for a slice of pizza. I actually understood all the questions asked--and answered appropriately--so, small victory!
Settling Back In
At Coop, everything felt familiar. The same friendly faces greeted us, and pink pomegranates were in season (same as in California). I almost fell asleep on the couch after unpacking but forced myself to dust and Swiffer the floors to stay awake. I seeded the pomegranate for later, while Ira--despite having slept on the plane--decided a nap was in order.
When he woke up, he roasted some veggies for a light supper. I managed to stay awake until about 9:30 p.m. and then slept straight through the night. Ira wasn't as lucky--late to bed, early to rise--but not bad for day one.
The Next Day
We were up early and headed to our favorite panatteria for fresh foccacia and our favorite cookies. On the way home, we stopped at the salumeria for pecorino, mortadella, prosciutto, carciofi, and pesto--all the basics.
Melissa stopped by to check in on us, and we caught up briefly before the day's next adventure.
That's when the hot water saga began. The heater wasn't working, but thankfully Niccolò came through. His technician confirmed that replacement parts weren't available, meaning a new unit was needed. It was Friday--we were bracing for days without hot water--but Niccolo somehow found a returned (still boxed!) unit in Grosseto at a deep discount. He and Ira picked it up that same afternoon, and the installers promised to come Saturday morning. Fast, right? We weren't going to question it.
Later that day, we walked to the Organ museum to visit Dr. Ronzoni. On our way, we ran into Anthony--the Nacho Man--if you recall, he and his wife Kim, bought
The Garden House from the
House Hunters International post. I think it's probably better to show you why we call him The Nacho Man, it's far easier than explaining.
They've moved out of their house and are waiting for permits, fingers crossed they can start renovation on November 17th. In the meantime, they found an apartment to rent in the city center. So after promising to meet for aperitivo at some point, we continued on our way.
We were almost to the museum when we ran into Augustino (Gus). He was on his way to aperitivo with Tim, who's married to Isabella. He asked if we knew him and I guessed correctly that Isabella was Tammy "Tiger's" friend who works at the U.N. in Rome. We hadn't yet met her husband, but I'm sure we'll have a chance at some point.
We finally made it to the museum and after a nice chat with Dr. Ronzoni (in Italian) I got to play for a bit. It felt wonderful to be back, and Dr. Ronzoni even said I didn't sound too rusty after four months away--a small but satisfying compliment.
We stayed up late again that night, knowing we had to be ready for the 7:30 a.m. water heater installation. When they didn't show at first, we were a bit worried, but it turned out they were just delayed until nine. By noon, the new heater was in place. Let me tell you, installing appliances in centuries-old apartments is never straightforward. Everything is custom, and custom takes time--but it's worth it.
When the hot water finally flowed, it felt like a victory. Lunch first (since we'd skipped breakfast), and then--at long last--hot showers!
After two long travel days, a successful installation, and our first errands back in Massa, we finally felt settled. It's always a little chaotic reentering Italian life, but that's part of the charm. We were home again, where the pizza's always fresh, the neighbors remember your name, and even the hiccups come with a story to tell.
A dopo!
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