A Full Day in Aggius

We both slept incredibly well and woke up ready to explore. First stop: the rooftop terrace of our Airbnb, where breakfast was waiting. Fresh fruit, chocolate croissants, yogurt with granola--and of course, cappuccino, espresso, macchiato. Sara was also the barista. 

I didn't take a photo this time; another couple was already seated at the large shared table, and it felt a bit rude to interrupt the vibe. Instead, we enjoyed a lovely conversation before setting off to wander through town.

Flowers everywhere

Cats enjoying a little shade

Aggius was in full bloom. Flowers spilled over railings, peeked out from window boxes, and softened the edges of the granite homes and streets. And as a bonus, the cats of Aggius seemed to be enjoying the shade as much as we were.

Tucked among the stone facades were murals--lots of them. Some were abstract, others more narrative, but all added vibrant color and character to the granite townscape. I'm not sure I understood every subject, but that just added to the charm.

Town Fountain

We made sure to stop by to the Town Fountain, which our host Sara told us was the source of drinking water for the whole town. Fed by a natural spring, the water flows cold and fresh. Locals fill bottles here daily and Sara told us it's even exported. 

Next up, at Sara's suggestion, we visited the Oliva Carta Cannas Ethnographic Museum,  located in a historic building right in the heart of Aggius. The museum showcases the domestic life and crafts that defined this part of Gallura for centuries. 

Traditional Loom

We were especially fascinated by the loom displays. Every home once had one, either in a bedroom or the kitchen, used to weave fabrics for clothing and household items.

Raw harvested corkbark

Another standout: cork. The bark of Sardinia's native cork bark oak trees has been used traditionally for everything from bottle stoppers to household goods. 

Breadbox?

Ira fell in love with the cork bowls and hoped to find one in the gift shop--no luck, sadly. But the staff pointed us toward the Cork Museum in Calangianus, a nearby town. Maybe tomorrow!

Cork bowls filled with plants used for dyes

It was time to meet up with Elena's husband, Robby, who happened to be visiting a friend in Sardinia and rode his motorcycle to Aggius to meet us for lunch. Naturally, we returned to Il Mosto--still the only restaurant in town--and tried a few new dishes.

Traditional homemade ravioli Gallurese style

I'm a ravioli lover, and this version was divine. Filled with ricotta and herbs, it was so creamy and rich it didn't need a sauce. 

Homemade chjusoni, crispy bacon, smoked ricotta and dried tomato

Both Ira and Robby had the chjusoni, which is the local version of gnocchi. Both enjoyed the dish very much. In fact, I was lucky to get a taste.

One surprise: the veal tongue. We didn't realize what we were eating at first--Robby had ordered a mix of dishes to share, and we dove right in. A few bites in, we paused to ask what it was.

Tender, flavorful, and absolutely delicious. Sara had told us it's the only place she eats tongue, and now we understand why. I don't know that I'd have the courage to order it elsewhere, but we were pleasantly surprised. Robby kept complimenting the chef--high praise from someone who clearly knows good food! I do apologize, as neither Ira or I had the wherewithal to remember to snap a photo of the tongue. 

After lunch, we said goodbye to Robby. who gave us a little local intel: Sardinia is beloved by motorcyclists not just for its winding scenic roads, but because, as he put it, "there's no radar enforcement." Good to know? Questionable. Eye-opening? Definitely.

Next stop: the Sardinian coast, cork bowls (hopefully), and more small-town discoveries.

A dopo!