On our way to our cars we stopped to take a picture of the current front facade of "The Wow Project" The unit we toured was the top floor right.
No houses to see today, but we ran into Serena who said there might be some tomorrow. So today we followed Andrea and Melissa to their favorite hike by the sea on the Etruscan Coast. Along the hike you come across Etruscan underground chamber tombs from around the 2nd and 3rd centuries B.C.
And then minutes later you reach Buca delle Fate (Gulf of the Sirens). Legend has it that the waters in this bay were once inhabited by these mythical creatures. With their melodious singing, they lured in fishermen who were never to be seen on land again.
We enjoyed a snack on the shore while learning how to say hospital in different languages. I attach the video below for your education as well.
After our hike, Andrea and Melissa suggested we explore the neighboring towns on our own. We drove the beautiful Viale dei Cipressi (Boulevard of Cypresses), a 5 kilometer tree-lined road to the historic village of Bolgheri.
We walked the center of this charming medieval town and came across this shop selling sculptural pieces. I post a picture of his mail box so we can remember it for the future. Ira really loved one of his wall hangings.
When we walked around the corner I spotted a man near a poster of the artist, then realized it was actually the artist, gosh. Though there were lots of people enjoying lunch al fresco, we decided to drive to the next town. Though the was beautiful, it was too small for us to consider living there. Though they are home to one of Italy's famous DOC wines, so there's that.
The next town was Castagneto Carducci, named for the Nobel prize winner for Literature in 1906 and a famous Italian poet, Giosuè Carducci. His family lived here between 1838 and 1849.
We parked and walked up the hill to this spot and then up into the town until we reached the church at the top of the hill. We wandered around town looking for a square or a restaurant to have aperitivo, but everything seemed to be closed. Our timing was a little off, but no worries we were ready to get back. This town felt similar in size to Massa, but didn't feel right. Where were all the people? We ran into a total of four the whole time we were there.
On the drive back we realized that this was the land of vineyards and olive trees. It was clearly set up for wine tasting tours with beautiful entrances to the vineyards in between olive orchards. So pretty, until we came across a flooded road. We pulled over to assess.
As we waited, we saw an SUV type vehicle cross the opposite direction without any issue, though their vehicle had more clearance. Then a little car pulled up behind us and stopped. An old Italian man got out with his dog. We watched while the dog ran across the flooded road back and forth in water only a few inches deep. On his way back to his car, the man stopped next to us. As Ira rolled down the window I struggled to find the words to ask for help. I came up with "La strada, tutto bene?" to which he responded in a deep and confident voice "Oh, siiiiii, siiiii". Victory! It felt so good to be able to communicate under pressure.
We made it over the road without any issues, but the rest of the way was pretty hairy. We narrowly missed a big truck coming round a tight corner and oncoming cars on roads that seemed barely wide enough for one car didn't even slow down. These were not the roads that Andrea took on the way out. We were in the Tuscan back country. But Ira was a very attentive and careful driver and we made it back safely.
Back at the Palazzo, we were tired from the stressful drive, but Ira wanted to walk to the Coop to get some wine and some veggies. On a side note, though the Coop is a cooperative, it is written without a hyphen and the pronunciation of the second 'o' is the same as the first. I'm probably the only one who spends that much time dissecting a word, but I find it interesting.
Meanwhile, back on our walk, the Salumeria across the street from "The Gallery" property was open, so we poked our heads in. To our pleasant surprise, the shop sold more than cold meat. There were fresh veggies, wine and many other sundries. Though obviously the prices were quite inflated, we assumed so for the convenient location. The bonus was the shopkeeper who was the nicest most friendliest man. His English was about as good as our Italian, but we figured it all out. He even gave me a "Brava" for having my own shopping bag. We felt so good having met him, we were happy to pay the price on this night.
The evening ended with a steak and pasta dinner, which by the way Ira prepared and cleaned up after as he has been doing since we arrived. He says he's enjoying the process. And so am I! 😀
This morning we went over to the apartment. We made sure to go early since there's no electricity or lighting at the moment. Many of the rooms look the same, aside from the pile of old doors and materials that have now been cleared. The biggest change by far was the terrace. From the guest bedroom, you can see the progression: what it looked like last spring, what it looks like now...and the rendering of what it will someday become. Notice that the old bathroom is completely gone--you can now see straight through to the terrace. Guest bedroom Spring 2025 Guest Bedroom Winter 2025 (minus the terrace bathroom) Guest bedroom rendering Unfortunately, it doesn't look like they've been able to save many tiles. Our original plan was to repurpose whatever survived into a medallion or faux rug in the foyer. So...we may be moving on to plan B. Tile demolition Below is the view looking out through the former bathroom door--soon to be a window--looking out on the terrace. The thickness...
Just when we started feeling a little smug about knowing our way around town--having our favorite cafes and go-to spots--something happened to remind us how much we still have to discover. Today we had lunch plans with Tim and Izabella. We told them to choose the restaurant, and they picked one we had never even heard of: Villa La Boccia. There are no signs pointing you there, no flashy advertising, nothing to catch your eye as you drive past--which we apparently do regularly without ever noticing it. So naturally we were curious about this "secret" local spot. When we arrived, the parking lot was completely full. Completely. The restaurant itself was large, with indoor dining and a courtyard, and every seat seemed taken. We were stunned. How had we missed this place? Luckily Tim had made a reservation--he told us he had tried before without one and failed to get a table. Good thing he planned ahead. Inside, the place was buzzing and the menu was extensive. It was hard...
Our last week in San Diego arrived faster than expected, and David is feeling the pressure to get as much bonsai work done as possible. If he'd had his way, Ira probably would have been working every daylight hour and only released at night. Unfortunately for David's plan, we already had a few things scheduled. One of those plans was a long-anticipated trip to the zoo with RC. With everyone's busy schedules, this was the first day that worked for all of us. And really, we had to take advantage of our annual pass, right? Kai arrived proudly wearing the gorilla shirt we'd bought him the last time we visited the San Diego Zoo . He was eager to show us how fast he could move and had a great time climbing and weaving his way through the polar bear exhibit. This time the polar bear was just as active. It definitely pays to visit early in the day. Sadly I stopped recording too soon because right after he jumped into the water, swam toward us, climbed out, and shook himself dr...
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